The entire collection is made in Florence, Italy and designed in LA.
Close your eyes and try to imagine a garment Ben Taverniti would design. Is it something short, skimpy, and sexy? Perhaps you’re thinking of a jean short fused with a tulle tutu or an asymmetrically draped top in a Kardashian-worthy shade of acid green? Now open your eyes and rest them on Taverniti’s new brand, Bureau de Stil. Surprised? You should be. The designer who popularized snug, low-rise denim in the aughts and a rugged streetwear aesthetic in the teens has turned a new leaf.
“I’m sure people are expecting a 2.0 version of what I have done,” Taverniti said at his first show for Bureau de Stil during Paris Fashion Week. “I wanted to make sure that isn’t the case.” What he presented instead was a proper about-face from his past life at Unravel. The first model to appear wore a red silk bias-draped top—long sleeve—and loose, pleat-front trousers. The next was in head-to-toe camel, with a soft down puff layered over a white denim jacket.
Many of his Left Coast signatures are still present, but you have to look a little harder to find them. One is a greenish tie-dyed suit, slouchily oversized and made from Italian silk. Another is his denim, though his new jeans lack the in-your-face flourishes of his past life. Here, he’s created ultra-wide-leg flares, proper straight legs, and a small selection of understated black and white denim jackets and trousers.
The entire collection, save the denim and leather pieces, is made in Florence, Italy, with natural materials, though it’s all designed in Los Angeles. The desire to keep things close to home in L.A. was one of the reasons Taverniti resigned from—“my baby,” as he called it—and left the security of the New Guards Group in favor of striking out on his own. His Paris debut was a strong start.
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