Baker's Bourbon Exclusive Selection review: A bigger age statement isn't quite an automatic slam-dunk for Beam's most nebulous bourbon brand. whiskey bourbon
back in mid-2020, it doesn’t take a whiz to note that this brand has always been the oddball black sheep of the Jim Beam Small Batch Bourbon Collection. It bears that title thanks to the way it falls perfectly between established, major brands—the standard Baker’s has an age statement that isthan the cheaper, high-value, 9-year-old Knob Creek, but is simultaneously lower in strength than the more expensive Booker’s.
Thus, the brand’s 2019 redesign and transformation into a single barrel bourbon, which added the allure of single barrel variation while keeping a 7-year age statement and 107 proof point. Although I doubt this truly moved a needle in a huge way for the Baker’s brand, it was a welcome expansion of what “Baker’s” truly signified, and something that helped give the brand a rationale for its existence.
Now, we have a new special release in the Baker’s lineup, one that experiments with a significantly higher level of maturation. Specifically, this release retains the 107 proof point but bumps the age statement up to 11 years, 8 months, with the whiskey purportedly coming from “some of Baker Beam’s favorite warehouses on the James B. Beam Distilling Co.’s campus in Clermont, KY,” according to the company.
On the palate, though, the brands start to diverge a bit more. Here I’m getting more of that very dark fruit, a slightly tart strain of something like blackberry/currants, along with slightly bitter molasses sweetness. There’s some peppery spice, and more sweet baking spice notes emerging over time, but what quickly becomes more dominant is the deeper and more commanding oakiness.
With that said, this dram was one that continued to improve as I let it sit in the glass, with the dark fruitiness and caramelized sugars becoming more accessible over time. This might be a bottle that therefore benefits from a few weeks or months of being open, but I can’t say for certain at the moment.
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