Located at Intercontinental Phuket, Hom is a dining destination worth the schlep.
from Hua Hin cradled in a young coconut shell and moated by a pool of macadamia sauce brightened with coconut cider. Local rock lobster is marinated in shio koji to yield delicate flesh sweetened by kumquat kosho and a citrusy sauce given complexity with the use of fermented plums. Earthy tendrils of local black crabmeat form the filling of a rissole, a friable half-moon pastry made of nothing but reduced milk. “We cook the milk down in a crepe pan till it becomes a thin skin,” Nunez said.
Which brings me to one refreshing aspect of the dining experience: The lack of chef-splaining that often comes with this kind of meal. Rather than put diners through a long spiel about the fermentations and origins of the produce, Hom’s genteel servers offer simple descriptions with every dish they bear. As she set an artful plate of fish before me, the server matter-of-factly explained that it was a local black grouper and its foamy dressing “a pandan sauce”.
Surprising flavours like these speak of an opportunity for adventure and a chance for the kitchen to display its culinary versatility. Unshackled by the burden of tradition that a native Thai might feel when faced with the produce of his homeland and helped along by the smart injections of creative fermentations, Hom feels like it is expanding and redefining the spectrum of what’s available to delight the palate.
“I don’t want people to come and say, ‘oh, it’s good, but it misses caviar or truffles or uni,” he said. “I hope that diners who come to visit us come with an open mind and just enjoy. There is so much potential in. Yes, the lobster may not be as sweet, but what’s better or different about it? The duck skin is tougher, but because of all that fat, it is tastier.
“It’s a fair exchange. You get something else in place of what you’re used to,” he added. At THB3,750 for a 10-course tasting menu, it is a gastronomic journey of discovery that seasoned diners should be happy to take.
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