Critic qualityrye comes face-to-face with Lume Cubes, flaming cheese pulls, and the app’s impact on dining out in New York
on TikTok declaring the venue a “rec” , or a “wreck.” It’s a little hobby that has helped Steph rack up more than 5 million views for her quick analyses of overlooked venues and atypically critical dispatches on what she calls “overhyped” New York City restaurants.
In world of influencing and food social media, the static shot of a stretched out mozzarella stick — its golden crust clinging to a distended band of milky curd — has given way to clips where viewers get to watch someoneover and over again. This cultural transition — watching a cabal of food influencers adopt short-form video — is a seemingly mundane one as we hurtle further into the abyss.
All of this guerilla camerawork by Steph — with that flash that could light up the runway at an airport — and others like her might cause concern that soon restaurants are going to feel like reality TV show sets. That’s unlikely, given the effort it takes to shoot, edit, caption, and upload these clips.
When the flaming cheese dish appears at Zou Zou’s, Steph gives Olimpia specific instructions on how high to engineer the pull, and spends four minutes manipulating the stretchy product. The greasy pulls look as real and flawed on video as they do in the West Side hotspot. By the time either of us eat the cheese, it is sludge.
Steph’s own reviews generally adhere to some of TikTok’s standard bylaws, both good and bad. They rarely exceed 32 seconds. Thumbnail photos generally boast a color palette that recalls birthday cake sprinkles. The camera seldom spends more than a second or so gazing on a single dish. Lighting isn’t so much artsy or shadowy as it is uniformly bright.
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