A Restaurant Critic Crashes the White House Turkey Pardon

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A Restaurant Critic Crashes the White House Turkey Pardon
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Restaurant critic plattypants traveled to Washington to witness the increasingly tired, loony ritual of the turkey pardoning. He found it was the perfect window into the madcap, farcical spirit of the Trump White House

“Butter,” one of the White House turkeys. Photo: Jabin Botsford/The Washington Post via Getty ImThe Washington Post via Getty Images “The Turkeys stayed at the Willard hotel last night,” I overheard someone say. “They always do that.” I was among the rabble of scribes, hacks, and weathered, vaguely recognizable TV faces beginning our slow, unruly procession from the famously cramped, airless White House press quarters out into the bright fall sunshine toward the Rose Garden.

Events like this are staged farce, of course, and the best kind of turkey pardoning, as any grizzled press veteran will tell you, is one at which everything goes to hell: The birds flap their wings and become rebellious, crowds of PETA protesters amass outside the gates, flustered Secret Service officers chase the birds to and fro among the presidential hedges.

The marine band played for half an hour or more before the turkey pardoner made his shambling appearance in his trademark New York capo overcoat and red tie, looking, I’m a little sorry to report, the way he always does — glowering, bluff, and orange tinctured — with the statue of Melania, dressed for the day in shades of turkey-stuffing brown, standing expressionless at his side.

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