Kyushu’s trading heritage helped shape Japan. Today a new rail link from Tokyo, which takes in the historic Sugar Road, makes it easier to explore this lush island’s onsen villages, distinct cuisine and rural homestays.
screen door slides closed behind me. The room is sun-dappled — paper door and latticework walls letting light in while keeping prying eyes out. My shoes have been spirited away and the tatami floor is cool underfoot, its summer-hay scent hanging in the air. The rush grass used for the flooring, I’m told, comes from neighbouring Kumamoto Prefecture.
Each individual dish in the Kai Unzen spa hotel's sugar-infused tasting menu pays homage to the cultural roots of its place of origin.I pass up a glass of local sake in favour of some green tea — Kyushu is one of Japan’s main producers; it was first introduced to the country by a Chinese Buddhist monk passing through the island in the 12th century. But when the train makes a sightseeing stop at the town of Hizen Hamashuku, the fermented rice beverages are harder to resist.
The ruling Tokugawa shogunate of the 17th century closed the nation’s borders to stem the rising tide of Christianity, but during the two centuries of isolation that followed, foreign customs, courtesans and all manner of sweet things still found passage along the Sugar Road. Had I stood here in the 1800s, my fellow travellers may well have included camels and elephants — exotic imports making their way to Edo for the shoguns’ pleasure.
Rui, the family’s youngest, turns nine the following day, so after eating there are fireworks to celebrate in the garden. We light sparklers with an usually fierce fizz — I squeak in surprise, and our grins are illuminated in their lemon sherbet glow. Life is sweet. The journey by Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyushu’s gateway city of Fukuoka takes five hours. Various local airlines fly several times daily, with a journey time of two hours.
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