Genoa was once one of the greatest of the world’s movers and shakers, but lately it has been overlooked in favor of its former rivals.
he ossified museum city is a familiar vision—Italy contains several of these sepulchers—and no discredit to them but if you'd like a wealth of history in a living place, try Genoa, a comprehensively engrossing destination overshadowed by many others.
Portions of the city are actively frowsy; prostitution is obvious in portions, and some of the street purchases I witnessed can’t have been welcome to the carabinieri. Perhaps keep your wits about you close to the waterfront after dark; otherwise it seems you needn’t bother. Genoa’s prime centuries as a maritime republic, when its outposts reached as far as the Black Sea, stretched from about the 11th to 15th centuries but it chased this with another immensely possible century plus as main banker to the Spanish Empire. This made for over 600 years of piling up tons of lire . There aren’t quite so many relics of the East as there are in Venice; Genoa propped up the Byzantine Empire instead of plundering it.
Peer into other palazzi entrances along the Via Garibaldi, you can stroll into a few. The Palazzo Doria Tursi contains an awesome courtyard and several rooms dedicated to native son Paganini.DeAgostini Just rambling around is a principal joy, do that as often as possible. You’ll find local fare of a character you won’t find in most locations. The focaccia is the obverse of the thick doughy trash you’ll usually find stateside; thin, crisp, and laden with olive oil and salt, topped with olives, potatoes, cheese. The locals dunk it in espresso; do what you will. Farinata, a chickpea bread, is dramatically better than it might sound.
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