In Beijing’s Summer Palace, the commanding volumes, idiosyncratic colors, and superb detailing of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s MaisonValentino haute couture was stirring. See every look from the collection here:
haute couture show in Beijing’s storied Summer Palace, the designer was walking through the improvised couture atelier—where most of the house’s tailors and seamstresses have been transplanted from the brand’s Palazzo Mignanelli HQ at the foot of Rome’s Spanish Steps—pointing out the many wonders created by these alchemists of cloth.
On the worktables, some of the very grand ball gowns, sheath dresses, and wide-leg pant ensembles were worked with elaborate intarsia and appliqué techniques to suggest the swirling brocades in a Bronzino portrait.
“Today, Valentino—especially for young customers like in China—is daywear and streetwear,” Piccioli explained, hours before a lavish new David Chipperfield–designed store opening that was to be thronged with the country’s hippest young actresses and music stars. “That’s great to get the brand alive and to face reality, but I also like the idea of the extravagance and boldness and uniqueness of the couture.
In homage to the Valentino haute couture craftspeople, the run of show noted the names of all those who had worked on the respective garments, along with some salient details that emphasize the “uniqueness” that Piccioli was talking about—facts and figures laid down in print that take the breath away.
Small wonder that Piccioli dubbed the collection “Valentino Daydream.
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