For every high-tech kitchen gadget, there's a beloved old-school equivalent:
, and Egyptian dukkah. Finding the right style for you is a matter of taste and intended use, but we asked a few chefs about their favorites., mortars and pestles have become something of a collector's item: she has three, and each serves a specific purpose. "The first is a brass old-school Indian one from my mom," she says, "I use it when I want roughly crushed spices, not a fine powder.
Beyond the hand-me-downs, Agrawal uses a larger marble mortar and pestle for recipes that need emulsifying, like pesto. "We eat a lot of pesto at my house," she says, "and the marble one pastes the garlic and basil really nicely. The large bowl helps, too, so I can make a big quantity at one time.
Claudette Zepeda, former executive chef at San Diego's El Jardín, counts her mother's molcajete, the Mexican answer to a mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock, among her prized possessions. Used to make salsas and guacamole, as well as crush dried chiles and cinnamon sticks, molcajetes sit on three short legs that lift the bowl off the tabletop, making them as much about presentation as they are about utility.
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