Haider Ackermann took the reins for Jean Paul Gaultier’s couture show this season, with Timothée Chalamet on the front row to support.
It was exquisite: a black cut-glass tailcoat with an interwoven silken pleated bib followed by another tailcoat so razor-sharp it looked as if a deconstructed white shirt – its pieces pouring out from its cuffs and closure – had cut itself on its lines. And so, it continued, one immaculately precise tailored silhouette after the other, with piercing plume poking out of necklines like poetry in motion, and bustiers and evening blouses sculpted like ceramics on the body.
“Jean Paul has big admiration for Madame Grès, and so do I,” he said of his approach to the collection. “It’s all about the pure lines.”The show was in striking contrast to the three previous Gaultier collaborations – Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, Olivier Rousteing – which all celebrated the hyper-glamorous enfant terrible sides of the legendary designer. “I wanted to go back to something… “ Ackermann paused. “You know, we know Jean Paul and we know the loudness and the music and the styling.
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