Zero-proof bitters can stand in for their high-proof counterparts, but need to be used with a heavier hand.
Bitters have always seemed like a safe nonalcoholic option behind the bar; they’re found on supermarket shelves next to bottles of Day-Glo margarita mix and jars of pearl onions. But it turns out that bitters not only contain alcohol, but do so in concentrations of up to 45 percent.
Alcohol is an outstanding solvent, with a molecular structure that coaxes flavor compounds out of herbs, botanicals and spices with ease and efficiency, so it’s the go-to base for most bitters formulations. But, a new crop of small-batch bitters makers has turned to an alternative ingredient as a base: glycerin.
“Glycerin does a great job of extracting flavor from botanicals, and it’s easier to appreciate the flavor because your taste buds aren’t dealing with the impact of 45 percent alcohol, allowing those botanicals to really shine through,” says Ian Blessing, co-founder and owner of All the Bitter.When tasting glycerin-based bitters, it’s easy to identify the flavors listed on the label.
“Bitters made with glycerin are typically more viscous than traditional alcoholic bitters, which can be surprising at first, but once they’re mixed into a few ounces of liquid, that texture is irrelevant,” Blessing says. “They also tend to be a bit heavier and can sink to the bottom of the glass, so you might need to stir your drink to make sure they’re fully incorporated.”
Here are four extraordinary nonalcoholic bitters companies that are worth seeking out, with approximate costs:Created by two former French Laundry sommeliers, this small-batch company produces bitters with highly discernible flavors that make them easy to experiment with, and tasty enough that you’ll want to use them generously.
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