A summer guide for truly intrepid food lovers.
, near Trenton, which has been open since 1912 and has a valid claim to the title of longest-running pizzeria in America, since Lombardi’s was closed for a decade starting in 1977. But it’s the pizza itself that makes Papa’s worth the journey along I-95, specifically the pizza most commonly referred to as “mustard pie.” It’s “thin crust,” but the genre has more in common with Manhattan’s slice joints.
—Any summer plans on Long Island tend to involve crawling along the LIE. Take a break around exit 45 and make the 20-ish-minute drive north to, a nothing-special-looking counter shop that is home to a curiously undersung regional delicacy: the cold-cheese slice, whereupon a giant fistful of uncooked mozzarella is added to a plain slice just as it emerges hot from the oven.
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