Welcome back to Breadmaking 101. For those of you just tuning in, this column is all about bread, and how to make it yourself in your own home. Today is baking day, which means we're going to discuss how to bake the workhorse loaf into a gorgeous, chewy-crunchy-aromatically-hypnotizing marvel.
Max Bernstein is a baker, cook, and educator, who studied bread baking at the French Culinary Institute in New York City, and has cooked lots of other things at lots of other places.Welcome back to Breadmaking 101. For those of you just tuning in, this column is all about bread, and how to make it yourself in your own home..
And so, before we get into the practicalities of actually loading our loaves into the oven, let's take some time to talk about how we know when—the big WHEN—to load our dough into the oven, and take stock of what it means to properly proof bread. During the final proof, our yeast is approaching the end of its food and oxygen supplies, meaning that this late in the game, most of the work our yeast is performing is of a fermentation variety—in other words, developing flavor.
Since judging the volume of our loaves can be tricky, I recommend using the same proofing baskets each time you bake until you begin to get a feel for this process. This will allow you to better gauge what changes in volume may signify in terms of dough progression. At the Cleveland, I almost always bake 900-gram loaves of the workhorse recipe, and I proof them in the same bannetons each day.
On top of all that business, load your baking vessel into your big oven, and set the temperature to 500°F , for at least half an hour before you plan to bake. Too much steam in the baking chamber will inhibit crust formation; too much heat coming from just one direction in our ovens may cause our bottoms to burn before our loaves properly dehydrate and our crusts brown.
As that CO2 heats up, what was dissolved in our dough's water comes out of solution. Like any gas, the CO2 in our dough expands as it heats up. This same process occurs with the ethanol created by fermentation and a portion of the water mixed into our dough—i.e., they evaporate and expand upon heating. Since these gases are trapped inside our dough by the gluten matrix we formed during our mixing and fermentation stages, as they expand, so does our bread.
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