The beauty of untamed nature amid a calming, slow pace awaits visitors to Tuscany’s sparsely settled Maremma region
I woke up to the braying of donkeys. Opening the window to morning air perfumed by wisteria and honeysuckle, I could see the herd — 16 sweet-eyed animals in all — grazing by the olive groves of La Pescaia, a country estate turned idyllic inn that embodies a fantasy of pastoral happiness for me: life among animals and birdsong and olive trees, encircled by the rugged nature of Maremma, in Italy.
My own rural mission began on horseback. In Maremma, traveling by horse was the customary way — long the only way — to navigate the dense and swampy territory, and the old horse trails endure, cutting through secluded woods and overgrown fields, past vineyards, farmland and the occasional quaint medieval village rising among the hills., Maremma’s unique brand of cowboys , are no longer numerous yet remain an active and integral part of the area’s identity.
An hour later, we came to a hilltop olive grove where an aperitivo of white wine and the farm’s own jams, honeys and local cheeses were set on a gingham-covered table. We watched the sun set over reddening wheat fields and forests before we rode back down as cicadas thrummed the arrival of dusk.
We waded through rivers, and through meadows of spindly broom flowers grown thick and taller than our heads, where our horses blindly forged the way through the yellow nebula of blooms. Both days, we rode for hours without seeing a car or another human being, encompassed by nature so vividly bushy after the downpours that it seemed to grow before our eyes.
The following morning, I set out on a hiking trip with Rudston Steward, a onetime New York party promoter who today leads the Maremma Safari Club, offering multiday hiking tours. We walked for hours, past yellow hills of rapeseed flowers, fields of chestnut trees, abandoned farmhouses and wild-growing asparagus, which Steward showed me how to pick.
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