Italy is overrun by tourists. Molise, a region to the east of Rome, is one of the few remaining exceptions.
, but it seems to get fewer visitors than certain restaurants in Tuscany. To the extent it has any reputation at all, it is as an unremarkable backwoods. Dismissed by travel guidebooks. Overlooked by Italians. On the wooden Italy puzzle I bought for my son — a piece for every region — Molise is attached to Abruzzo.
There are towns with all sorts of surprises. Frosolone is a center for artisanal knives. Carpinone straddles a mountainside so sheer you would expect a ski lift. Agnone is the base for the world’s second-oldest family business, a foundry that makes bronze bells for the Vatican, and where visitors can walk through the factory floor, dusty and bustling, full of clay and wax casts and busts of popes.Visiting Molise, it must be said, requires some commitment.
“The almost total rurality of the Molise people is the origin of their defects and virtues,” the author Francesco Jovine wrote in his book, “Viaggio nel Molise,” a travelogue that we received from our friend Stanislao de Marsanich, president of a park system that honors Italian authors.It dawned on me after a few days in Molise that the dearth of visitors bestows a deep benefit. We saw it in the attention, the energy and the affection gifted to visitors.
A little panicky, I called a nearby agriturismo, Essentia Dimora Rurale, a place Francesco had recommended, and asked if they by chance served dinner. The place was 10 minutes away by car.How to avoid eating like a tourist in Italy, according to Rick Steves
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