Led by Daniel Lee, who hit “reset” with this latest Burberry collection.
will cross the Channel to present her haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, the first London designer — she’s Dublin-born — to be a guest designer for the couture house.Rocha, who started her business about a dozen years ago, is part of the new guard. Unlike some of her peers who do romantic — that is, very English — clothes, Rocha seems to know that life is messy and is more interesting if things feel a little off-kilter and easy to move about in.
, she tucked bundles of raffia into some of her dresses, between layers of chiffon, to evoke the harvest. This time, fresh roses were trapped in the fabric. Well, it’s spring. Customers will get silk versions.“I wanted something quite focused,” Anderson said. “Less silhouette.” Another way of understanding the difference is that his collection felt more wardrobe driven without losing the brand’s idiosyncrasies. The opening looks — hoodies with cargo shorts — were actually made of modeling clay.
Carzana is an artist working in a very harsh business. He told me he created his spring collection alone and then some friends and interns joined him for the last few days. “We all pulled together,” he said. “We made the shoes this morning.” They consisted of pieces of fabric laced around the models’ feet. A ballet or an opera company should think of commissioning him for costumes. He could probably use the money, and they could use his wild magic.
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